PAGE CONTENTS
ENCLOSURES
LIGHTING HYDRATION
This page will examine various enclosure arrangements for
chameleons and a few other basic husbandry topics.
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picture to enlarge then use your browser's back button
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If you have personal experience
with any of these items and would like to comment
MOST OF THESE ITEMS HAVE LINKS ON THE LINKS
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A few things to consider when deciding on an enclosure
| The size requirement of the species you are
getting. Remember most chameleons are arboreal (tree dwellers) and prefer
height over length. A good size is calculated by
using the guide (HBL = snout to vent length) |
For
arboreal (height loving tree dwellers) species
short side of bottom = 3 x HBL
long side of bottom = 4 x HBL
height = 6 x HBL
For
terrestrial (ground dwellers) species i.e. Brookesia
short side of bottom = 4 x HBL
long side of bottom = 6 x HBL
height = 4 x HBL
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A good cage for chameleons will be screen on at least three
sides- they need fresh air, avoid glass and plexi-glass - the reflection
causes stress (seeing another cham) and STRESS KILLS |
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You should be able to maintain a noticeable temperature
gradient - depending on species some as much as 30 degrees from basking spot
to cool down. Remember they regulate their body temp (cold blooded) thru
basking |
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It should allow good humidity control, not too open and not
all solid walls |
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It should be able to sustain a lot of watering without
rotting or rusting |
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It is best if feeder insects can not escape, but the
screening used should be open enough not to cause injury to your cham's feet
and resistant to crickets eating it |
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You should be able to place a basking light and/or a UVB
light on it without melting or burning the walls |
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You should be able to view your chameleons but there should
be plenty of leafy cover for them to hide in. They do not need ground cover
i.e. hollow logs. |
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They do not need water bowls or bottles, they drink droplets
of of misted leaves (moving water) |
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They need lots of various size branches and vines to climb
around on. This lets them exercise those very strong hands and legs. |
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Substrates are not recommended with chameleons. They can be
ingested and cause impaction leading to premature death. |
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Live plants are recommended. some species of chameleons will
actually EAT the plants. If a tropical house plant can not survive in your
enclosure then it is not right for the chameleon either. most have very
similar requirements. |
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You need a to use BOTH a basking light a regular 60
to 100 watt light (depending on the size of your cage and species of cham)
works fine and florescent (ZooMed's REPTISUN 5.0 ) UV lighting |
literature cited (2,5,6,7,9)
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Very
typical and terribly incorrect set-up
This very typical set-up
was found in a pet store. The picture quality is not great, but the idea
is to show the DON'TS of chameleon keeping. this female veiled was in an
all glass aquarium with a solid top. I was able to get them to put a
screen top on it, and use the dripper for water, but it was already much
too late. If you look closely you can see the dark rings around her sunken
eyes. she was badly dehydrated and probably suffering from a URI (Upper
Respiratory Infection) as well. Her tongue was dark yellow with
black spots, not the light pink that a healthy chameleon should have. |
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LDS
Cages
Bottoms
are 1/8 inch white high impact plastic. All cages are made with a solid
bottom. Yes we can make your cage with a screen bottom. The wire color
is charcoal . the frame color is charcoal. All Corner's are mitered .
Our cage can be put in direct sunlight . Every cage is hand made ! The
top as well as the sides are wire.
Yes! You can put a reflector (clip on fixture) directly on the top
for a basking light .
Custom sizes are no problem. It just takes a few days longer to receive
your cage. Yes ! You can disassemble your cage and reassemble it
in a new or different location.
The smaller size wire is *small cricket tight*, two weeks
old and older.
Custom CHAMELEON Cages
Lightweight,
somewhat portable, well made, affordable, easy to clean, and designed
for chameleon housing.
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LIZARD/BIRD
CAGE PVC GREEN MARTIN'S
THESE DURABLE, HIGH QUALITY CAGES FEATURE A DOUBLE ZINC COATED AND
PVC FINISH COATING. THE PVC IS RESISTANT AGAINST HIGH TEMPERATURES AND
ULTRAVIOLET RAYS. They come in many sizes
seethatpetplace
on LINKS PAGE
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REPTARIUM
The REPTARIUM
takes into consideration the basic needs in terms of air, hygiene and
overall happiness of a captive reptile. We feel that the well being of
your reptile will improve significantly with your use of the REPTARIUM,
a product designed not for fish, or a revision of a fish tank to broaden
their market, but solely for the explicit purpose of modern
reptile containment utilizing the most current knowledge of reptiles and
their unique yet simple needs. Walls of the REPTARIUM are
constructed of reinforced nylon. Nylon is also cricket proof, where
fiberglass is not. The openness of our mesh allows the reptile to feel
less like it is enclosed and allows full sensory perception of it's
surroundings.
see Herpsupplies.com or Reptile
Can
be hard to clean, the black has a slight problem with visibility
(good for the cham bad for the chamowner), the white looks much better
for visibility. Not a bad choice and comes in many sizes.
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CHAMELEON
CANOPY
The TOP DOME
creatively conceals both the lighting system and the drip system. It
also keeps chameleons from escaping because they can not grip on to the
wide smooth rim. On the rear side of the Top Dome is a fill spout for
adding water to the adjustable flow rate drip system. The CONFINEMENT
BOWL prevents chameleons and live prey items from escaping. Its
smooth inner surface keeps crickets and chameleons from scaling the
wall. The system also keeps crickets from climbing up the ropes-- they
are always trapped inside of the confinement bowl. Only your chameleon
can explore the free climbing area.
see
chameleons.net canopy cage or ReptileDepot.com
on LINKS PAGE
Unique,
interesting appearance, GREAT roaming cage, difficult to control temp
and humidity-only suitable for limited species if used as
permanent home.
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HOME
MADE WOOD
I build
three frames with 1x2 pine and corner braces, and then attach
plexi-glass fronts or screen sides to that. The back and bottom are
solid plywood covered with colored vinyl cloth to protect from water and
give a natural appearance. Then I frame the top out for the light
fixture with the same 1x2 ‘s and screen except for the area for the
light fixture which is a Home Depot 24” 2 light fluorescent fixture
with reptisun 5.0 added. I use a full-length hinge on the door, and trim
them out with some molding. Viola.
Chameleon cage complete.
It took me a couple of weeks to do the first one, then about a week on
the second one, only three days on the third one.
see
My Chameleons PHOTO Album on the LINKS PAGE
for lots more pictures of my chams,
misting system, and cages
If
you got time, some talent and tools, then this is a good option. you can
customize it to your taste and available space (but make it big enough
for the cham)
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HOME
MADE PVC
Using PVC
pipes and PVC
90 deg. "elbow connectors" make rectangular "panels"
to serve as the sides of the box that will be the finished cage. Cover
these pipe panels with mesh by securing the mesh to the pipes with cable
ties. Attach the panels together with bolts and butterfly clasps. Attach
the door with large cable ties for "hinges" and latch closed
with velcro or velcro Grippers (tm). It will look something like the
photo to the left.
see
www.geocities.compvccage.html
From
the LINKS PAGE for more detailed instructions
If the
screening used on this is smooth enough to prevent injury to feet it
could be a good cage, however, it was really designed for iguanas.
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HOME
MADE SCREEN & PVC
Using PVC pipes
and casters to build stands worked great for this chameleon owner. These
appear to be easily maintained. As you can see from the pictures, the
top and front open for cleaning and maintenance. They are perched on top
of plastic tubs, so overflow from misting should be no problem.
Portable, lightweight, durable, and not bad looking, what more do
you need? Excellent job.
back
to top |
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FREE
ROAM HABITAT FOR MELLER'S CHAMELEON
AS SEEN ON
ANIMAL PLANET EMERGENCY VETS
Photos
Courtesy of Allison Banks
In the center of the room, sheets of plywood to protect the carpet
and provide a little air circulation. On
top of the plywood platform, a ring of crates that surround a central
"clearing". Cover the whole
crate/plywood structure with heavy plastic sheeting.
Potted Ficus alli trees and schefflera of different
heights set on the crates or around the edges.
A network of climbing branches from tree to tree, to lights, etc.
wired to tree trunks.
UVB and basking spotlights hung from the ceiling by hanging plant
hooks.
RainMaker Jr. misting system crosses the center of the
"forest" from a stand in the corner of
the room where the reservoir sits. All the spray is
aimed to hit the tarp/tree area.
An ultrasonic room humidifier up on stacked crates between 2 trees.
In the central opening several inches of CareFresh cage bedding to
absorb and hold moisture (raises the room humidity).
A depression for accumulated water that I drain with a small portable
pump into a bucket.
So, basically, I created an island forest in the room. I can walk all
around it and all the electrical cords run to various
wall outlets. When I need to clean out the bedding
I shovel it into a trashcan and dump it outside. I
find its much easier to maintain than a cage big enough
for the melleri as I don't have to climb into anything.
Problems: the lights are hard to reach to change bulbs. Aiming the
spray nozzles can be tricky as the chams love to walk or
sleep along the water tubing and mess up the aim.
I run everything on timers so all I basically do
is change bulbs, fill reservoirs, drain water, and feed the chams.
I do spray them individually for drinking though. I can hang feeding
bins in the branches for them to find and shoot from. The bins are
removed after each feeding and set in different spots next time.
The ficus and schefflera are growing like crazy and I have to prune
them back.
In summer I run a small fan in the room doorway to keep the room from
getting too hot. I guess that's it. Enjoy!
Wouldn't
all of our chams love this arrangement.
back
to top |
LIGHTING,
TEMPS and HUMIDITY
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ACTIVE
UVB HEAT LAMP
By Active
UV-Heat
This
lamp emits Ultraviolet (A & B) rays as well as visible light and
heat. They project a beam of light and heat. No fixture, ballast
or reflector is needed. Your animal should always be
able to either bask in the light or move out of its beam. The
Flood Lights should be approximately 12" to 18" away from
the animal and the Spot Lights 24" to 30".
This
product has not been evaluated by me. Many people believe that you can
not get UVB from a "screw in" bulb.
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SORRY THAT'S AS BIG AS IT GETS |
REPTISUN
5.0
Recent tests at the Boston
University School of Medicine show that Zoo Med's
Reptisun 5.0 UVB and Iguana Light 5.0 UVB bulbs induce 7-DHC conversion to
Previtamin D3 at a rate 23 times greater than the next leading UVB reptile
bulb!
Wavelength penetrates a full 10-12" from bulb's surface. Bulbs
last a minimum of one year before diminishing wavelength. (Replace Bulb at
1 to 1 1/2 years.)
any of
the supplier links
should carry this one
DESCRIPTIONS FROM THE
ZOO-MED WEBSITE
This is
THE preferred UVB light by most chamowners.
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TIMERS
AND THERMOMETERS
These are MUST
HAVE items. Cheap timers like the one on the left work great for most
uses. I use the digital timer on the bottom for my misting system. it is
more accurate on short times (4 - 5 minutes). The others do great for
turning lights and humidifiers off and on .The thermometer pictured on the
bottom is a Radio Shack model. I have seen similar products in Wal-mart
for $15.00. It gives you humidity and two temperature readings PLUS it
stores the high and low, which is great for long term monitoring.
Well
worth the extra money
go to
Wal-mart, Home Depot,
or Radio Shack for purchase
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SORRY THAT'S AS BIG AS IT GETS
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T-Rex
Reptile Habitat Thermometer
The T-Rex Reptile Habitat Thermometer is an accurate and easy to
read dial type thermometer that is designed for use INSIDE the reptile
habitat. The T-Rex thermometer is different from other reptile
thermometers currently on the market because it is not a digital strip.
The T-Rex team has found that many, if not most, consumers assume the
digital strip goes on the OUTSIDE terrarium glass, much like on their
aquariums. This results in less than desired accuracy in temperature
readings.
The T-Rex Habitat Thermometer is compact and mounts naturally at
any desired location inside the reptile's habitat, giving accurate
readings in a wide range from 60 F to 120 F. For best results, use two:
one in the hottest area of the enclosure, the "baking zone" and
one in the coolest corner.
User friendly instructions give general guidelines for
required temperature ranges of the most commonly kept reptiles.
most
of the supplier links should carry this one
DESCRIPTIONS FROM
T-REX WEBSITE
spend the few extra
dollars on the digital combo
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SORRY THAT'S AS BIG AS IT GETS
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T-Rex
Reptile Humidity Gauge
Serious and knowledgeable hobbyists now understand the importance of
accurately measuring humidity in order to maintain different types of
reptiles, whether desert or tropical, in their proper natural environment.
The T-Rex Reptile Humidity Gauge, like the T-Rex Thermometer, is
an incredibly accurate and easy to read dial-type instrument that is
designed for use INSIDE the reptile habitat. The gauge is compact and
easy-to-mount, yet it measures relative humidity with an accuracy equal to
that of laboratory instruments that cost up to 10 times more!!
The T-Rex Reptile Humidity Gauge is custom designed to display
comparative readings for desert, moderate or tropical environments. User
friendly instructions give general guidelines for the required humidity
range of the most commonly kept reptiles.
most
of the supplier links
should carry this one
DESCRIPTIONS FROM
T-REX WEBSITE
spend the few extra dollars on the
digital combo
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MANUAL SPRAYER
Some
form of manual sprayer is a MUST HAVE . The one pictured is a great indoor
sprayer. It holds 2.5 pints of water and has a pump to pressurize it,
which saves a lot of trigger squeezing. It works like a larger garden
sprayer. This one costs around $6.00 at Home Depot or Wal-mart.
go
to Wal-mart or
Home Depot for purchase
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REPTILE DRIP-WATERER
These come
in two sizes, one gallon and one pint. They are great for drip watering
but should NOT be the only method of hydration used.
most
of the retailers on the
LINKS PAGE and local pet stores
should have these
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MISTING SYSTEM
This
is a great time saver. you can design and build your own misting system
using 1/4 inch tubing and sprayer heads from a hardware store. they make
lots of different types of heads from drippers to misters, and they are
inexpensive. The pump is the costly part of this and can run $20 to $100
depending on selection. You should still carefully monitor their drinking
habits and mist them manually as well. HYDRATION is the most important
aspect of chameleon husbandry and should be given the time and resources
required to do it properly.
go
to Wal-mart or Home Depot,
for purchase or visit
MISTING
SYSTEMS AND PARTS
on the LINKS PAGE
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HUMIDIFIER
You can purchase an ultrasonic
humidifier at most drug stores or big chain retailers (WAL-MART TARGET)
for around $20.00. They are worth the money for most species. They help
control relative humidity and temperature. This one has been
modified with PVC pipes and vinyl tubing to direct the output to three
cages. These are not required, but come in very handy. Be sure to keep
them clean if you use one.
go
to Wal-mart, Target
or any drug store for purchase
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